In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and baking soda with a pinch of salt and a grind or two of black pepper until light and frothy.
Melt the butter in a 10- or 12- inch nonstick skillet over medium- low heat.
Add the beaten eggs to the pan and stir slowly with a wooden spoon or spatula, bringing in all the beaten egg from the edges of the pan to the center, forming large curds.
Your eggs are ready when they look just a teensy bit undercooked and still slightly runny— they’ll continue to cook slightly even after you’ve removed them from the heat.