Some people prefer their mashed potatoes passed through a ricer or a food mill for a smooth velvety paste. We like our mashed potatoes more rustic. Lumps? Lord no, but we like mashed potatoes with some texture, texture that means homemade. The best way to achieve this is with an old-fashioned potato masher. You just move the masher up and down, crumbling the potato into ever-smaller pieces. Potato mashers can be found everywhere, from fancy kitchen supply shops to hardware stores. Buy something sturdy, with a comfortable wooden handle. If your pot is big enough, mash the potatoes in it. Or, use a large, wide bowl. Place the quartered potatoes in the pot or bowl. Sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of salt. Place the pan with the warmed cream and melted butter close to the potatoes so you can reach it easily. Take your masher and go once, gently, around the bowl or pot to break up the potatoes. As the potatoes crumble, they should look as flakey and fluffy as new snow.