Since stuffing rarely appears separate from Thanksgiving, it’s an inherently nostalgic and meaningful dish. I bake my stuffing on a sheet pan so the crispy-to-soft ratio is basically one to one.
These crispy scallion pancakes have all of the traditional appeal of their restaurant namesakes, with more flavor and texture thanks to sesame oil and sesame seeds and less greasiness than what is often served in Americanized Chinese restaurants.
I cook the squash with garlic and a little nutmeg, then put it in a gratin dish with a topping of crunchy bread crumbs and Gruyère cheese. This is serious comfort food on a cold winter night.